Moscow Suburb: don't go there in Riga. Or better - do it!

If there is a district in Riga locals are telling tourists to stay away - it's Moscow Suburb - that shady place with old wooden buildings, black market and every second house selling illegal drugs. And now it's time to be honest - I live there. I've been walking around there at daylight hours and totally alone at nights as well. Nothing ever happened to me. Nobody even tried to harm me or my street-walking peace there. I'm sharing apartment with two other people and nothing bad ever happened to them as well. My intuition is whispering that this district is not that bad. 

 

Ok, here is something not so nice - you will see old haunted wooden houses, drunk people on streets, some stray dogs, you will probably witness drug dealing, someone might ask you a cigarette and the main language spoken there is not Latvian, you will hear Russian. If it sounds scary to you - don't go there. 

So called Moscow Suburb is the oldest district in Riga (right after the medieval Old Town) and its history starts dated back to 14th century. So, Russian district, then Jewish district, the poorest district in Riga... If you are interested in history of this part of Riga (and some more pictures), check here: Russians of Latvia

Talking about nowadays: as I mentioned before - I can perfectly deal with this district where haunted houses are displayed to view but private palaces are hiding behind high fences. I even find it somehow romantic place... Start your tour with Riga Central Market, then head to the Soviet skyscraper The Academy of Sciences and "dive" into Moscow Suburb with   Jewish memorial places, Grebenshchikov Church - one of the largest congregations of Old Believers in the world, independent theater, small shops and other things to wonder about.

Oh, you can find there the most amazing flea market I've seen - Latgalīte - it's just awful at a first glimpse, but definitely a place where you could find even Devil if you were looking for it - you can find there everything. As we joke - if you have lost something in Riga, you can buy your things at this flea market.  (Note: it won't hurt to watch your pockets and bags if you go there).

Posh and shine is staying away from Moscow Suburb- it still is the poorest district in Riga. Well, probably this district looks also a bit sad and depressive in rainy days, but it has it's own atmosphere and historical breath. And shiny, colorful autumn seems the most suitable season for this district. That's something you don't get to see at the city center.

P.s. You can click on pictures to enlarge them.

Winter in Riga: What to Do?

Winter is not just about Christmas, although that’s what we all think starting from November till first weeks of December. Till the middle of December majority of us  is already tired of Christmas on every corner. For those, coming to catch Christmas mood in Riga, see previous post about Christmas Markets and the Nutcracker.

But!

What  about other winter activities in Riga? Ok, it’s cold here, so you walk around get into some cafe to warm up, walk again and get again in some random cafe. Nope, it doesn’t have to be like this. Here are some options  for you to enjoy winter in Riga:

Day of Museums! The best time to visit museums is winter, for sure! Art lovers, you have a lot to see here – huge collection of Latvian Art history in a permanent exposition you will find at the  Latvian National Museum of Art (K.Valdemāra Street 10a) and walking through the Old Town, you will find a lot of small art galleries. History lovers, check the Occupation Museum at the Town Hall square and War Museum at Torņa street with impressive medieval Powder Tower or huge Museum of the History of Riga and Navigation at Palasta street 4 (Old Town). The sunniest place in Riga is Sun Museum at the Old Town – different Sun items from different places in the world, the most playful place – Doll Museum,  the hottest museum (just opened in Riga) – Museum of Erotic. Maybe Art Nouveau museum?

Skating! (Skating rinks are not opened yet, but will surely be there as soon as real winter is here). It’s a great  option to warm up in winter! You will find one skating-rink at the Old Town, one in the last stop of the Tram nr. 11 – Mežaparks (with natural ice) and many more. The most pompous shopping centre in Riga  - Galleria Riga - invites to the skating-rink on the top of the building! On the 7th floor above the roofs of Riga city center you can skate while enjoying panorama of Riga! /I’ll let you know as soon as winter is here and open-air skating-rinks open/

Some other winter sports? Take a day trip out of Riga - to Sigulda (around 1 hour drive from Riga) and get to know bobsleigh! Get to know it closer – not just watching, but also putting yourself into the place of a  bobsleigh sportsman! Bobsleigh season has already started! You can go there on your own, with your friends or join organized tours – almost all travel agencies are oranizing  tours to Sigulda, or ask at your hotel or hostel – a lot of them are really keen on it and glad to take Riga’s visitors to bobsleigh in Sigulda. By the way, Sigulda is also famous with its' beautiful nature and castles.

Nightlife in Riga? No changes there: Riga’s nightlife in winter is as active as in summer. Some cozy places for dancing and getting to know local people see here:  Where Locals Have Fun I, Where Locals Have Fun II

Picture:  The Entrance of the  Latvian National Museum of Art

Christmas Markets & The Nutcracker. Your Travel Destination in December: Riga

Already the next week December will be here and if you are coming to Riga on December, I’m glad you will catch our Christmas mood. Do you know from where comes the tradition of decorating Christmas tree?  The tradition spread all over the world comes form Northern Europe: the 500 years old story of decorating the Christmas tree comes from Riga!

I’m pretty sure one of the first places you will want to see will be the Old Town  where Medieval architecture lives side by side with Art Nouveau houses. And that’s the right choice – that’s where you will find Christmas markets filling cobbled streets with goods from Latvian ecological farms and hand made knick-knackeries (starting from 1st of December), that’s where you will be able to warm up with hot tea or wine. Do not forget to taste unique Riga Black Balsam, which you can get almostly in every cafe/bar with hot coffee, hot blackcurrant juice or in different coctails. One of options to enjoy it,  is Black Magic Bar (since 1752) where you will be able to get to know almostly everything about Riga Black Balsam (except its’ well kept secrets).

Another market: an old-fashion fair at Bergs Bazaar (at the city center) will be opened on 10th and 24th of December from 10am to 3pm at The Bergs Bazaar (Elizabetes Street 83/85) 

To enjoy Riga from height of birds flight, you can choose St. Peter’s church at the Old Town, you can get out of the city center to the TV Tower  or enjoy lights of Riga from the 27th floor of Radisson Blu hotel „Skyline” bar (working from 4pm, free entrance from Monday to Thursday). TheTower of the  Academy of Science is closed during this season. 

For enjoying  Christmas atmosphere with good Latvian food, Latvian music and people dressed in Latvian folk costumes you should  get out of the city centre to visit ‘LIDO’. If you are here with kids, it is a really good option: you will find there a lot of activites not only for you, but also for your kids: skating rink, place where to play with other kids (with a person who will look after children)  and other attractions. 

For those looking for entertainment with arts, you should check what Latvian National Opera (LNO) can offer you! Opera is also one of these things Latvia is famous aborad: Latvian opera singers are highly appreciated worldwide, singing on all famous stages of the world and great foreign opera singers are performing on LNO stage in Riga, historical building with pompous interior. If you like ballet,  in December 2011 LNO offers you to enjoy „Anna Karenina”, „The Sleeping Beauty” or (what can be better than this on December!!) „The Nutcracker”! Want opera? Here you are: „Don Giovanni”, „Madama Butterfly”, „Turandot”, „La Traviatta” or Latvian opera (also interesting for kids) „The Bird’s Opera”. Ticket prices from 1.50 to 18.00Ls. Check the calendar here. 

 

More options for your December in Riga on this blog coming soon! Feel free to ask, share your questions and impressions or experiences!

Red, Yellow, Gold - Must See in Latvia.

Your friend in Riga has been silent for some time. It doesn't mean that there was nothing happening in Riga. First and the most important things - Golden Autumn is here with all it's colors and cold. And yesterday finally even my house got central heating on. If we talk about enjoying colors of autumn I can not keep this secret - there is a must-visit place in Latvia to enjoy this season - and this place is called Sigulda.

53 kms away from Riga is "outdoor activity capital of Latvia and home to a Olympic standard bobsleigh track". As soon as people see first yellow/red/orange leaves on trees they are hedding to Sigulda. If you check the map, you will see that we have no mountains here and our highest point in the country is so "high" that I'm even afraid to mention it here, but it's located in Sigulda: the main reason for going to Sigulda is it's picturesque landscpes. Every step there can become a picture: medieval castles, river Gauja, nature paths, caves and hills - this place has inspired a lot of painters and makes you to take marvelous photos.

Why Sigulda is in my heart? Actually not because of autumn, but spring: I stayed a night at the river Gauja some years ago first days of June. And the early morning: was amazing: first sunlight,  fog, birds flying low over the water, roes on the other side of the river and these landscapes... It felt like in a fairytale. These really are fairytale views. And autumn makes this all to shine in gold.

This video will let you to see pictures of autumn in different places in Latvia: Riga, Sigulda and more. Song by Latvian band "Brainstorm", language  - Latvian.

 Start your trip here with 360 degrees virtual tours in Sigulda

Previously on blog about Sigulda: The Dream of Flying

Two River Banks - The Panorama Of Riga

Other pictures of Riga: Old Town I, Old Town II, Magic Sand festival, Cemetery With the Soul

Bohemian Street - Away From Touristic Riga

 The Street of Peace (Miera iela) is like a little Riga's secret out of the touristic centre, - new born  bohemian paradise, but still in the centre of the city 20 - 30 min walk away from The Old Town. No drunk crowds, no screaming party-people, but special places to celebrate the life everyday. My heart belongs there and it's not because I was born there.  It's also not because already more than one year I see how the sun goes down and how it's rising on mornings over the roofs of this street through my window.  

 The street long time ago was made as the road to cemeteries out of the city. Close to the main street in Riga - Freedom street, close to the one of the biggest theatres in Riga "Dailes Teātris". On this street you will find the factory of the best Latvian chocolate "Laima". (Yes, sometimes the smell of chocolate is really impossible to avaoid, because it comes in over the opened windows and takes over the street). You will find here houses where 200 years ago lived aristocrats and you will see beautiful wooden architecture. 

One of the reasons to come here is it's bohemian atmosphere. DAD cafe - on Miera iela 17 - piano, jazz, vintage furniture, poetry, photograpy... TAKA on Miera iela 10 - colorfull  place with origami birds in windows & comfortable sofas, home-made wine from Latvia, sometimes tasty smell of soup makes you to stop passing by this place... Tea-room "ILLUSEUM" on Miera iela 19 - to collect your thoughts over the cup of tea: exceptional collection of teas from all over the world... Vintage shops and high quality handicrafts. People with bicycles, the tram nr. 11, cobbled streets... It's like peacefull Sunday mood or evening talks over the cup of tea are living right on this street.

If you keep walking this street 5 more minutes the direction away from the Freedom Street (Brīvības iela) you will see in front park - cemetery called The Great Graveyard: one of the most interesting cemeteries I have seen. See some pictures here: The Lost World Cemetery With The Soul

The Town Hall Square: Blackheads House & The Museum of The Occupation

The Town Hall square and Blackheads House you will eventually find on your walk through The Old Town. And you don’t want to miss it because that’s what you see on postcards from Riga. You need to make your own picture at this place.

With stalls, workshops and various feasts The Town Hall Square used to be the centre of public life during The Middle Ages. Historians consider that initially it was a market place, but after expansion of the city in 1211 the Town Hall square was formed here. Punishments were executed and pageants used to be arranged here as well. During World War II the luxurious development of Town Hall Square was completely destroyed. Thanks to grand reconstruction works in this century the main buildings - the Town Hall and Blackheads House - have been restored. In the centre of the square you can see a figure of Roland which is a symbol of judicial power, freedom and independence of many European cities.

The Blackheads House built in 1344, is a stunning example of gothic architecture. The original house was the headquarters of unmarried local merchants, known as the Blackheads.

In this square you will aslo find The Museum of the Occupation of Latvia housed in a black communist-era building - .detailing events of Latvia's recent history, from the World War II occupations to the events of independence in 1991, the museum is definitely worth a visit, in order to gain a clearer understanding of Latvia. Opening hours: Tue-Sun 11:00-17:00 (Jan – Apr and Oct - Dec); Tue-Sun 11:00 – 18:00 (May – Sep) Admission: Free

Similar posts: The Bastion Hill, See Riga From Hight of Birds, The Highest TV Tower in EU, The Freedom Monument, Wonders of Art Nouveau, The Old Town - Heart of Riga

Creative Sand Sculpture Park „Magic Sand Riga 2011”

Cross the river Daugava, take a walk on the Stone Bridge - the view to Riga from there is wide and beautiful. On the other side of the river this summer till September is creative sand sculpture park. It's not big, but worth seeing it.

"Magic Sand" is an international festival. In Riga you will see artwork by 12 professional world class sand masters. Entrance fee - 2Ls, for additional fee you can create your own sand sculpture. Sand sculpture park also offers other activites - like "Game Station" for children, workshops and early morning yoga classes. Working hours: every day 10AM - 9PM.

 I went there today. There are less sculptures than I was expecting, but - real masterpieces, the view to Riga is wonderfull and the atmosphere there today was really meditative & peacefull. Artists working, and not only kids playing in a big sandbox. I also enjoyed playing with the sand! This place will calm you down and inspire.

From Zeppelins to Food - Riga Central Market

This is definitely a very special place - located betwean The Old Town and Riga’s own ‘Moscow suburbs’, right next to the Central train terminal and bus station. Even if you are not planning to shop, there are a lot of reasons to visit this market.

 

The buildings here, today used as market pavilions, were initially built as hangars for the German army’s zeppelins. Now next to the imported food you will find here delicious, fresh, ecological food from the countryside of Latvia, and it’s cheaper than in any shop. The meat pavilion, grocery, greengrocery and fish pavilions, the open air market area. And there  are a lot of opportunities to taste the food before buying it! If you look at clothes/shoes – it’s „Made in China” paradise, but betwean that all you can find here also high quality stuff. It is the second biggest market–place in Europe.

 

On my free weekends I take my shopping bag and go to the Central Market to get the best (fresh & cheap) food in the city. It’s not only market-place, it also holds cultural events and shows a little different face of Riga than you will see in The Old Town.

Get to the Central Market to feel the sell & buy atmosphere! 

You might also like:  

Riga Central Market on Travellers blog

The Old Town - Heart of Riga

What to do when it's too hot in Riga?

Riga which you don't find in tourist guides

Preili Town - Find Your Own Little Wonderland!

Preili is a small town (south-eastern part of Latvia) within 200 km from Riga which slowly becomes more and more popular place for tourists to visit. One of the main reasons to visit this town is miniature castles. There is also neo-gothic manor house that once belonged to the count Borch family of German descent and used to be a wonderful dwelling-place surrounded by a romantic ancient park. 
 

And of course - it's located 25 km from the most famous church in Latvia - Aglona Basilica. 

This town is peacefull, artsy, romantic and small... Sculptures in honor of the cheese, miniature realm, the smallest church in Latvia...

Look at these pictures! Looks cute, no?

The Bastion Hill – Have Some Rest in The Centre of Riga

If you are in Riga I’m sure you will see the Bastion Hill near the 42 metres high Freedom Monument , in front of the Opera House. Bastejkalns (Bastion Hill), Riga's second highest hill at a towering 16m (52ft) above sea level, was created from 1857 to 1859 to replace the old defensive sand bulwark. With the removal of the earth fortifications, a new period in the development of Riga set in. The former defensive moat became a winding city canal.

The first plantings in the area were performed by A.Vendt, an engineer from Luebeck. The gardener Reims continued planting from 1863 to the autumn of 1879. From 1880, when the Town Council established a Garden Committee under the guidance of G. Kuphalt, the vegetation was considerably remade taking into account developing traffic. Higher demands were set for the art of gardens. Stone embankments with small cascades and waterfalls were arranged here to resemble a mountain river in accordance with G. Kuphalt’s design in 1888.

Several paths lead to the top, which provides excellent views of the surrounding sights in the winter months.. Cannons, limestone busts and other curiosities recovered from damaged buildings following World War II were embedded in its walls for posterity. Within its precincts are memorial stones to five people killed by Soviet bullets during the January 1991 disturbances. Among the dead were camera operators documenting the stormy events... Romantic paths, bridges, sculptures... Sometimes cultural events are taking the place here. Perfect place to get rested during the summer in a green grass  -in shadows of hundred-year-old trees.

Other posts you might be interested in:

The Lost World Cemetery with The Soul

The Art in Stone: Mysterious Easter Island in Riga

See Riga from Hight of Birds

The Highest TV Tower in EU

Your Guided Tour in Riga: professional, walking, bus tour, friendly and free

You are coming to Riga. You want to take an excursion to get to know the city? You will have problems to choose the best one or the most suitable for you because there are so many! Normally price for an excursion in Riga starts from 10Ls (15Euros) per person – one hour walking tour, but you can also find free tours! Here are 4 options for you.

Bus Tour:

The fastest and easiest way is to take Riga Bus tour – sightseeing tour by bus through all city. No walking, no bad weather can bother you, audioguide in 10 languages... http://www.riga-sightseeing.lv/ . Sightseeing tour buses departs daily every hour from the Latvian National Opera, Town Hall Square (Rātslaukums) and Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija. Bus tour duration is 90 minutes. Ticket price 10Ls (15 Eur). You can also get Hop-on Hop-off ticket which is valid for two days and costs 14Ls (20 Eur)

Professional Guide:

Next one comes agency SmileLine – walking tours – aslo very easy, you find them in The Old Town near the Occupation Museum under yellow umbrella. Just got stright to them and get your excursion – well planned walking tour. You can also check Riga Guides register: http://www.rigaguides.lv/en/excursions. and book your excursion before coming. And you can find hundreds of other agencies offering excursions. Starting from 10Ls per person.

Free Tour:

Escape the Old Town and discover stories of Riga from the past and present in a 3 hour walking tour. Starting point – in front of the entrance of the St. Peter’s church every day at 12.00. As a youth project the Free Tour operates for tips only so if you like the tour you can give your part to support the cause. http://freetour.traveller.ee/?page_id=5&lang=ri

Free "Your Friend in Riga Tour" is also possible if you contact me via e-mail: friendinriga@gmail.com and want to meet a local friend in Riga. You are welcome to tell me your interests or whatever comes into your mind you would like to see/to do/to feel in Riga. I’m not a professional guide – just living here, working and partying, going to events and walking around. I have some knowledge in history, literature, music, I know the cultural life and values of Riga, I can take you to the places where professional guides don’t go and I will honestly share my experience about living here. I will be glad to meet you here! :)

Daugavpils – Different City: Russia, Fortress, White Swan & Culture

Last weekend I was there. It was a great, sunny day with a lot of activities on the streets. Daugavpils (previously called Dinaburgh) is the second biggest city in Latvia, the city near the banks of river Daugava – called The River of Destiny (the same river you will see all the way from Riga to Daugavpils) It’s multicultural city (I would actually say it’s totally Russian city), the city of many fates. It’s located around 270 km from Riga, close to the borders of Russia, Belarus and Lithuania. Ancient stones of the fortress and splendid art nouveau in the heart of the city, low-rise wooden houses... It’s another Latvia. Last week there was the City Festival and, believe me, Russian songs are still in my head sung by kids and adults.

The historical centre of Daugavpils presents itself a specific monument of urban construction, but here are some interesting things you shoul see here. Rigas Street: one of the first streets in Latvia with the pedestrian traffic. Currently it is the liveliest street in the city with a wide range of shops, cafes, banks and offices.

Fortress of Daugavpils is considered one of the most significant symbols of Daugavpils. The fortress is an architectural monument of state importance and a unique object of the cultural and historical heritage of the city. The history of the fortress begins in 1772, when the council of War of the Russian Empire made a decision to begin the construction of the fortress. It is the only model of the fortress in Eastern Europe dated back to the first half of the 19^th century, that has been preserved unchanged. 

Church Hill. Every traveller, who wants to see the sights of Daugavpils, should visit Church Hill this unique place where churches of four different confessions are situated. You will find in this city big, impressive churches not only at the church hill.

And I think you will have a question „what’s that?” once you see a huge, white bulding entering the city if you come from Riga. It’s a prison (people call it The White Swan). No worries, it’s not a criminal city and people there are very nice. If you take a train from Riga to Daugavpils you will already be prepared for Russian community. :) Oh, and I forgot to mention – it’s also students' city: a lot of higher education opportunities are offered in this city – music, law, languages etc.

See more pictures of Daugavpils here 

Find the bell from Daugavpils in this collection 

The Lost World Cemetery with The Soul

About the Great Graveyard I have told you a little before. It really is one of my favorite places in Riga and I’m amazed by the beauty of 200 years old chapels and monuments in this cemetery. Unfortunately I must say that nothing is renovated there  - what means that it looks a little like lost world there. And now it’s more like a park not cemetery. I have posted some pictures of this place previously – on early spring – with the snow (It’s here: http://friendinriga.blogspot.com/2011/04/riga-which-you-dont-find-in-tourist_01.html). Some pieces of how it looks there now at the beginning of summer you can see here: