Since every single day I’m with backpackers from around the
world who comes to Riga I’m really surprised how actually the 20 years old Museum
of the Occupation of Latvia is popular among tourists. Almost every day I meet
someone who has been there, is going there or wants to go there, what makes me
to think that really is one of the must-see things in Riga. And definitely the number 1 museum in Riga
visited by foreign guests.
The original building of the museum you can find at the Old
Town – Town Hall square, BUT- due to
renovation it has changed the address for a while. Good news – it’s not very
far from it’s previous location and not far from the Old Town. The Bastion Hill
and the Freedom monument you can find right on the border between the Old Town
and „New Riga” or the city center, and that’s where you can find the Museum of
the Occupation of Latvia as well – at Raiņa bulvāris 7.
Oh, almost forgot: if we talk about the occupation and
museums here is some alcoholic entertainment to get to know the history in
Riga.Lately a new shot has concured the
hearts of locals in Riga and it is called „Occupation Museum” (or „Okupācijas
Muzejs” in Latvian). The shot „Occupation Museum” consists of something from
Latvians, something from Germans and something from Russians (that’s already a
lesson in history of Latvia): Riga Black balsam, Jagermeister and vodka. As
bitter as the truth of history. Get it at Shot Cafe located at Jacob's Barracks at the Old Town.
*picture taken from the official website of the Museum of
the Occupation of Latvia
If there is a district in Riga locals are telling tourists to stay away - it's Moscow Suburb - that shady place with old wooden buildings, black market and every second house selling illegal drugs. And now it's time to be honest - I live there. I've been walking around there at daylight hours and totally alone at nights as well. Nothing ever happened to me. Nobody even tried to harm me or my street-walking peace there. I'm sharing apartment with two other people and nothing bad ever happened to them as well. My intuition is whispering that this district is not that bad.
Ok, here is something not so nice - you will see old haunted wooden houses, drunk people on streets, some stray dogs, you will probably witness drug dealing, someone might ask you a cigarette and the main language spoken there is not Latvian, you will hear Russian. If it sounds scary to you - don't go there.
So called Moscow Suburb is the oldest district in Riga (right after the medieval Old Town) and its history starts dated back to 14th century. So, Russian district, then Jewish district, the poorest district in Riga... If you are interested in history of this part of Riga (and some more pictures), check here: Russians of Latvia
Talking about nowadays: as I mentioned before - I can perfectly deal with this district where haunted houses are displayed to view but private palaces are hiding behind high fences. I even find it somehow romantic place... Start your tour with Riga Central Market, then head to the Soviet skyscraper The Academy of Sciences and "dive" into Moscow Suburb with Jewish memorial places, Grebenshchikov Church - one of the largest congregations of Old Believers in the world, independent theater, small shops and other things to wonder about.
Oh, you can find there the most amazing flea market I've seen - Latgalīte - it's just awful at a first glimpse, but definitely a place where you could find even Devil if you were looking for it - you can find there everything. As we joke - if you have lost something in Riga, you can buy your things at this flea market. (Note: it won't hurt to watch your pockets and bags if you go there).
Posh and shine is staying away from Moscow Suburb- it still is the poorest district in Riga. Well, probably this district looks also a bit sad and depressive in rainy days, but it has it's own atmosphere and historical breath. And shiny, colorful autumn seems the most suitable season for this district. That's something you don't get to see at the city center.
In every country there are some prejudices and hot topics to talk about and be careful talking about. Here are some things which, depending on the local person you meet, in Latvia can be offensive and unpleasant to hear or talk about.
Latvia vs. Lithuania
There is no problem between Latvians and Lithuanians, we are friendly neighbors with similar languages, history, architecture, traditions and problems, even the names of these countries sound similar in different languages like Lettland & Litauen, Lettonia & Lituania, but... The same as Germany & Austria with the same language or Slovakia & Slovenia with similar names, Latvia and Lithuania are two separate countries. If you are in Riga and tell that you are glad to be in the capital of Lithuania, the face in front of you might change from friendly smiling to truly disappointed. Although it is not a big deal, but it is happening pretty often that foreign people being in Latvia keeps calling it Lithuania. The capital of Latvia is Riga and the capital of Lithuania is Vilnius. As a small country fighting for its identity and recognition, we just want people, who are visiting us, to know where they are.
Latvians vs. Russians
You probably know something about the history of Latvia, you see in the map that Russia is our big neighbor and have heard something about Russians in Latvia. What’s the problem? It’s the BIGGEST problem for a lot of people in Latvia now. Just 20 years have passed since we have got the independence from Russia and there is a huge percent of Russian speaking inhabitants in Latvia, referendum about accepting Russian as the second official language in Latvia, Soviet time memories that are still alive. You don’t know you are meeting Latvian or Russian and both sides are quite nationally minded. If you discuss this topic with Latvian you will get a version of stupid, cruel, rude, uneducated Russians. If you talk with Russian you might get a story about stupid, racist, heartless Latvians and that Latvia actually is Russian country not Latvian. We are just all the time incited against each other by politics and mass media. Don’t say that Latvians and Russians have no difference between them. In fact, there is no problem for Latvians and Russians to be good friends, but if you meet some especially nationalistic person with strict opinion about what is happening and how it should be, this conversation can become never-ending and pretty uncomfortable.
Sex-tourism
A lot of inhabitants of Riga would throw eggs or tomatoes on me just because I mentioned it here. Stay calm: I’m not promoting Riga as sex-tourism destination! Riga has sparkling nightlife, more girls than boys and open-minded girls what leads to what is called "sex-tourism" here. You might also face people considering that every male tourist in Riga is sex-tourist. The word ‘sex-tourism’ in Riga is not used meaning the same as in Amsterdam or Thailand – it’s not about prostitution. This 10 minutes Youtube video gives some explanations:
Freedom Monument
If you are in Riga there is no way you could miss seeing Freedom Monument – it’s 42 m high monument separating the Old Town from the new city centre with the majestic opera house on one side and the Bastion hill on the other side. We are all extremely sensitive about any joke you make about it. Mass media also have told us that many times foreign people find this almost holy place for relieving natural needs behind the monument. You get a penalty for this. Just don’t do it even if the police doesn’t see you (what is pretty impossible there in any time of a day). This monument is embodiment of Latvian strength, history and identity. Read about it here: Monument, Freedom & Flowers
At the end I should say that Latvians have sense of humor and they love joking about themselves (of course - we can joke about ourselves but are sensitive when others are joking about us - as anyone else). The picture below shows the world through eyes of a Latvian. :)
If you have other observations, questions or something to add to this post - feel free to comment here!
There are people always keen on visiting museums, but if it is not some really famous museum or something you have a special interest in, would you go there on a sunny summer day if it is not an open-air museum? Majority of us would say - noooo.... But autumn/winter season is just perfect for visiting museums!
I remember myself as a child: I didn’t live in Riga, but my grandmother was living close to Riga. Natural History museum was a place where my grandmother took me almost every time when I visited her on school holidays. I’m not so sure about the correctness of my own childhood memories to remember how many times she took me there, but I was never bored there and always happy that I’ll go there again. Natural History museum of Latvia is a place for people in all ages and just perfect for visiting it together with the children. It is located right in the centre of Riga, close to the Old Town & Railway station on K. Barona Street 4.
Their website says: „The Natural History Museum of Latvia is the largest and one of the oldest complex museums of natural history and sciences in the Baltic States.”
Entrance fee: pupils (7 – 18 years old) 0,50Ls, students & seniors 0,80Ls, adults 1,50Ls, family ticket (1-2 adults with 1-2 children under 18) - 20 % off admission (proof required - student card, senior card etc.) For temporary exhibitions there will be extra charge, but half an hour just before the closing time you can visit for free permanent exhibitions! Working hours: Monday & Tuesday – closed, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday 10AM – 5PM, Thursday - 10AM – 19.AM (with 2 happy free admission hours from 5PM – 7PM).
Winter is not just about Christmas, although that’s what we all think starting from November till first weeks of December. Till the middle of December majority of us is already tired of Christmas on every corner. For those, coming to catch Christmas mood in Riga, see previous post about Christmas Markets and the Nutcracker.
But!
What about other winter activities in Riga? Ok, it’s cold here, so you walk around get into some cafe to warm up, walk again and get again in some random cafe. Nope, it doesn’t have to be like this. Here are some options for you to enjoy winter in Riga:
Day of Museums! The best time to visit museums is winter, for sure! Art lovers, you have a lot to see here – huge collection of Latvian Art history in a permanent exposition you will find at the Latvian National Museum of Art (K.Valdemāra Street 10a) and walking through the Old Town, you will find a lot of small art galleries. History lovers, check the Occupation Museum at the Town Hall square and War Museum at Torņa street with impressive medieval Powder Tower or huge Museum of the History of Riga and Navigation at Palasta street 4 (Old Town). The sunniest place in Riga is Sun Museum at the Old Town – different Sun items from different places in the world, the most playful place – Doll Museum, the hottest museum (just opened in Riga) – Museum of Erotic. Maybe Art Nouveau museum?
Skating! (Skating rinks are not opened yet, but will surely be there as soon as real winter is here). It’s a great option to warm up in winter! You will find one skating-rink at the Old Town, one in the last stop of the Tram nr. 11 – Mežaparks (with natural ice) and many more. The most pompous shopping centre in Riga - Galleria Riga - invites to the skating-rink on the top of the building! On the 7th floor above the roofs of Riga city center you can skate while enjoying panorama of Riga! /I’ll let you know as soon as winter is here and open-air skating-rinks open/
Some other winter sports? Take a day trip out of Riga - to Sigulda (around 1 hour drive from Riga) and get to know bobsleigh! Get to know it closer – not just watching, but also putting yourself into the place of a bobsleigh sportsman! Bobsleigh season has already started! You can go there on your own, with your friends or join organized tours – almost all travel agencies are oranizing tours to Sigulda, or ask at your hotel or hostel – a lot of them are really keen on it and glad to take Riga’s visitors to bobsleigh in Sigulda. By the way, Sigulda is also famous with its' beautiful nature and castles.
Nightlife in Riga? No changes there: Riga’s nightlife in winter is as active as in summer. Some cozy places for dancing and getting to know local people see here: Where Locals Have Fun I, Where Locals Have Fun II
Picture: The Entrance of the Latvian National Museum of Art
When that dark season is already arrvied here – empty trees, dark streets, no colors of golden autumn and no snow yet, Riga gets into celebrations. 18th of november – the national holiday – birthday of Latvia – proclomation day. What we do on this day in Riga?
1) We go to watch National Armed Forces parade on the first part of the day at the river Daugava with the orchestra of Latvian armed forces. (11:00)
2) We go to concerts, church, make family dinner, put flowers at our freedom monument – it depends on family traditions
3) Evening part comes with the celebration event at the freedom monument with Latvian folk and choir songs and the most important – the President’s speech
4) We all are hedding back to the riverside (where we started our day with the parade) to watch fireworks over the River of destiny – Daugava.
If you are in Riga on 18th of November, you might be surprised seeing that partriotism and national consciousness which is in the air these days in November. You are welcome to join on this celebration!
Another big and worth seeing event - Beaming Riga. The city has been changed through colors, lights and music, technology and creativity every year around 18th on November. This year Beaming Riga is form 17th to 21st on November – in different places all over the city.
Let me find some pictures I made at the last years Beaming Riga and I’ll share them with you in my next post.
The HouseofBlackheads built in 1344, is a stunning example of gothic architecture. The original house was the headquarters of unmarried local merchants, known as the Blackheads. This was a place which played an important role in the society life and traditions, VIPs from all over the Europe often were guests there and not only for official meetings and cultural events... It was a place for wild secret parties of rich people! A German merchant club the Brotherhood of Blackheads existed here until the middle of XX century. On the top of the building you see blue astronomical clock, inside the building on the basement you can see the exposition about the history of the building, it’s rooms and halls are rich with golden decorations, fireplaces, furniture from 19th century, paintings, sculptures, Latvian Statehighestaward-the Three Star Order - and themedalcollection, House of Blackheadsnewsilvercollection – and even more you can see here. Rooms of the building are also rented for cultural and private events/celebrations, different concerts and exhibitions are organized here.
Address: Rātslaukums 7, Riga, LV-1050
Opening hours: Monday – closed, Tu – Su 10.00 – 17.00 (May 1 – September 30)
and11.00 - 17.00 (October 1–April 30). During the cultural events part of the house is closed or not available for visitors.
