Moscow Suburb: don't go there in Riga. Or better - do it!

If there is a district in Riga locals are telling tourists to stay away - it's Moscow Suburb - that shady place with old wooden buildings, black market and every second house selling illegal drugs. And now it's time to be honest - I live there. I've been walking around there at daylight hours and totally alone at nights as well. Nothing ever happened to me. Nobody even tried to harm me or my street-walking peace there. I'm sharing apartment with two other people and nothing bad ever happened to them as well. My intuition is whispering that this district is not that bad. 

 

Ok, here is something not so nice - you will see old haunted wooden houses, drunk people on streets, some stray dogs, you will probably witness drug dealing, someone might ask you a cigarette and the main language spoken there is not Latvian, you will hear Russian. If it sounds scary to you - don't go there. 

So called Moscow Suburb is the oldest district in Riga (right after the medieval Old Town) and its history starts dated back to 14th century. So, Russian district, then Jewish district, the poorest district in Riga... If you are interested in history of this part of Riga (and some more pictures), check here: Russians of Latvia

Talking about nowadays: as I mentioned before - I can perfectly deal with this district where haunted houses are displayed to view but private palaces are hiding behind high fences. I even find it somehow romantic place... Start your tour with Riga Central Market, then head to the Soviet skyscraper The Academy of Sciences and "dive" into Moscow Suburb with   Jewish memorial places, Grebenshchikov Church - one of the largest congregations of Old Believers in the world, independent theater, small shops and other things to wonder about.

Oh, you can find there the most amazing flea market I've seen - Latgalīte - it's just awful at a first glimpse, but definitely a place where you could find even Devil if you were looking for it - you can find there everything. As we joke - if you have lost something in Riga, you can buy your things at this flea market.  (Note: it won't hurt to watch your pockets and bags if you go there).

Posh and shine is staying away from Moscow Suburb- it still is the poorest district in Riga. Well, probably this district looks also a bit sad and depressive in rainy days, but it has it's own atmosphere and historical breath. And shiny, colorful autumn seems the most suitable season for this district. That's something you don't get to see at the city center.

P.s. You can click on pictures to enlarge them.

Where VIPs from Europe had wild parties?

The House of Blackheads built in 1344, is a stunning example of gothic architecture. The original house was the headquarters of unmarried local merchants, known as the Blackheads. This was a place which played an important role in the society life and traditions, VIPs from all over the Europe often were guests there and not only for official meetings and cultural events... It was a place for wild secret parties of rich people! A German merchant club the Brotherhood of Blackheads existed here until the middle of XX century. On the top of the building you see blue astronomical clock, inside the building on the basement you can see the exposition about the history of the building, it’s rooms and halls are rich with golden decorations, fireplaces, furniture from 19^th century, paintings, sculptures, Latvian State highest award - the Three Star Order - and the medal collection, House of Blackheads new silver collection – and even more you can see here. Rooms of the building are also rented for cultural and private events/celebrations, different concerts and exhibitions are organized here.

Address: Rātslaukums 7, Riga, LV-1050

Opening hours: Monday – closed, Tu – Su 10.00 – 17.00 (May 1 – September 30)
and11.00 - 17.00 (October 1–April 30). During the cultural events part of the house is closed or not available for visitors.

Entrance fee: 2Ls, students - 1Ls,

Read more about history of the House of Blackheads: http://www.riga.lv/EN/Channels/About_Riga/Riga_architecture/Old_Riga/MelngalvjuNams.htm

Other places to see at the Old Town:  Pictures of Riga Old Town I, The Town Hall Square

Today Riga is grey of rain, but yesterday there was sunny afternoon at the Old Town...

 Check also these pictures of The Old Town posted previously:   

The Old Town - Heart Of Riga

The Town Hall Square: Blackheads House & The Museum of The Occupation

The Town Hall square and Blackheads House you will eventually find on your walk through The Old Town. And you don’t want to miss it because that’s what you see on postcards from Riga. You need to make your own picture at this place.

With stalls, workshops and various feasts The Town Hall Square used to be the centre of public life during The Middle Ages. Historians consider that initially it was a market place, but after expansion of the city in 1211 the Town Hall square was formed here. Punishments were executed and pageants used to be arranged here as well. During World War II the luxurious development of Town Hall Square was completely destroyed. Thanks to grand reconstruction works in this century the main buildings - the Town Hall and Blackheads House - have been restored. In the centre of the square you can see a figure of Roland which is a symbol of judicial power, freedom and independence of many European cities.

The Blackheads House built in 1344, is a stunning example of gothic architecture. The original house was the headquarters of unmarried local merchants, known as the Blackheads.

In this square you will aslo find The Museum of the Occupation of Latvia housed in a black communist-era building - .detailing events of Latvia's recent history, from the World War II occupations to the events of independence in 1991, the museum is definitely worth a visit, in order to gain a clearer understanding of Latvia. Opening hours: Tue-Sun 11:00-17:00 (Jan – Apr and Oct - Dec); Tue-Sun 11:00 – 18:00 (May – Sep) Admission: Free

Similar posts: The Bastion Hill, See Riga From Hight of Birds, The Highest TV Tower in EU, The Freedom Monument, Wonders of Art Nouveau, The Old Town - Heart of Riga

The Old Town - Heart of Riga

Last Saturday I took the camera and went for a walk at the Old Town. I'm not a professional photographer, but I hope at least some little part of the atmosphere here you will see. 

It’s in the heart of Riga near the river called Daugava. The official year of foundation of Riga is 1201, the beginnings of the city was build by German bishop Albert. Small streets will lead you to gothic churches, medieval buildings – it really has some special aura. At the same time it’s also the centre of sparkling nightlife which usually gets it’s highlights starting form Wednesday’s evening and getting again more peacefull just on Sunday mornings. This part of Riga never sleeps. 

During the day time you will find here great variety of shopping opportunities from expensive chich to street markets with souvniers, hand-made crafts and paintings etc, museums and art galleries. At summers The Old Town gets filled with all kinds of open-air cafes and beer gardens, street performances, live music and celebrations. And when the night comes over The Old Town it’s streets are filled with cheerfull people for active night life: bars, pubs, clubs for taste of everyone. 

For visitors of Riga you will find here variety of hostels and 5 star hotels. Different guides/exursions on summer you can get here right on the street – no need to book your excursions before coming if you don’t have any specific interests. This place is more than enjoyable not only to Rigans, but also visitors of the city. Even for me – when I get there inside, it’s hard to leave.

See Riga From Height of Birds Flight!

And once again about being high! No, I don’t speak this time about flying, nor about smoking strange things to get high. I speak about seeing Riga from a bird’s point of view. Of course, dinner in the sky is something unique and must be really exciting, but not all of us can afford it and not always it is here.

You have probably red one of my previous posts about the TV Tower. (It’s here) It’s a great choice to go there, maybe you could just have some difficulties with getting there. But, no problem, there are other places, too.

What I usually advice for my friends and guests of Latvia is The Academy of Sciences. It’s in the centre of Riga, it’s easy to go there and the view to Riga is really wide  - you can see the Old Town, historycal centre, so called Moscow Suburbs of Riga, you can enjoy contrasts. The buiding itself was built after World War II, between 1953 and 1956 and it was the first skyscraper in the republic. The building is a cousin to similar Stalin-era skyscrapers in Warshaw and Moscow, and the example of Stalinist architecture. See the birds eye view to Riga from the 17th-floor balcony (height of 65 metres, 213 ft)! It's located next to the Central Market & Train Station.

You can also enjoy the view of Riga from the biggest church in the Old Town – St. Peter’s church. Another view you will get from the 26st floor of the Radisson Blue Hotel "Skyline" bar at the city centre – these are beautiful sunsets you can enjoy together with your friends with a glass of your favorite drink there! Radisson Blue you will easily see walking just some 3 min from the Freedom Monument to the historycal centre (away from the Old Town)

Wonders of Art Nouveau II

Wonders of Art Nouveau

It would be a sin not to write about Art Nouveau in Riga, because Riga boasts the largest collection of Art Nouveau buildings in Europe. Art Nouveau makes Riga to be a little wonderland – this architecture is unsurpassable.

The architectural and artistic answer to the literary Modernist movement that began in the late 19th century was the Art Nouveau movement in Europe. The Art Nouveau movement reached its peak in the early 20th century, which is when the majority of Riga’s Art Nouveau houses were built. Riga’s term for the movement, Jugendstil, comes from the German and Scandinavian movement named after the avant-garde periodical Jugend (“Youth”). Unlike the stiffer sensibilities of Victorian style, Art Nouveau stressed a complete creative freedom, mixing fantastic elements with a tendency to show all utilitarian construction elements as artistic value, with very characteristic elements such as dynamic, undulating, and flowing lines and geometrical ornaments.

Riga is one of the largest centres of Art Nouveau, with more than a third of the buildings of its Central District built in the style; other significant centres include Paris, Barcelona, Berlin, Vienna, Krakow, Moscow and St. Petersburg, among others. The main street for Riga’s Art Nouveau architecture is Elizabetes street, which intersects Brivibas Boulevard. In addition to Elizabetes Street, Alberta and Strelnieku Streets also feature impressive examples of the style. In total, there are over 800 Art Nouveau buildings in Riga.

Riga Art Noveau centre can help you. Here you will find the information about architects, maps and routes: http://www.jugendstils.riga.lv/eng/turisms Of course, you are welcome to visit Art Nouveau museum!

The highest TV Tower in EU

Towers are a manifestation of the dream of ancient civilisations to get closer to the sky.  Millions of people visit towers to enjoy their unusual panoramas and to experience the feeling of being ‘up there’. Riga’s contemporary silhouette is not imaginable without the radio and television tower at Zaķusala, which differs to other standard towers through its individuality and expressiveness.  However, this is not just a building which symbolises Rīga, but is also a technical structure which has to perform specific functions —  to broadcast radio and television programmes, and provide electronic communications services.   The 368 metre high tower in Riga is the tallest in the European Union.

In late 1972, M. Shkud, the chief engineer of the All-Union Planning Institute of the USSR Ministry of Communications, and the chief expert I. Ostrovsky visited Rīga to provide advice on the construction of the tower, they aslo emphasised that television towers were no longer built solely as technical buildings, but also as tourist attractions with an observation deck and restaurant.  They insisted that it should be located in the centre of Rīga, and the most appropriate place, to their minds, was on an island in the centre of the city which they had seen driving from the airport.   The next stage involved deciding on a design for the tower.  The author of the visual design is the Georgian architect K. Nikurdze.  At that time very similar reinforced concrete towers were being built in many other places — in Lithuania, Estonia, Moscow and Berlin, with the only difference being the top section.  K. Nikurdze considered that the tower should be built from steel, in this way gaining a more impressive look. 
 

The Rīga radio and television station at Zaķusala started to transmit its first broadcasts in 1986.  The transmitter began regular transmission on Channel 28 in January 1986.  Building and assembly work continued until 1989, and work on the tower was completely finished over a ten year time span.
 

You are welcome to visit this great tower! The observation deck, which is located 97 meters above Zaķusala, is the highest publicly accessible viewing point in Riga.  From there you can easily see the city and in the right weather conditions you can see the Riga HES at Salaspils and the highest points at Sigulda, as well as the Gulf of Riga and ships in the gulf. 

You can book an excursion there (around 45min) or just go there and enjoy the view. For detailed information (mission, history, services, technical information etc.) check their site: http://www.tvtornis.lv

Riga Which You don't Find in Tourist Guides

You definitely have to see the Old Town of Riga, you have to see our beautifull and renovated Art Noveau on Alberta street. But if you are in Riga for longer time or it’s not the first time when you are here – take a walk and be one of these rare birds discovering other Riga.

If you start your way from the Freedom Monument (The Old Town stay behind you) – look up! You will discover very interesting architecture. Go till you reach the  Daile Theatre and tramways. You are on Matīsa street. You can turn right and continue your walk on Matīsa street or turn left and countinue on Miera street (street of peace).

Turn to the right side: Matīsa iela. You are still in the centre of Riga. Behind these walls you’ll find small, cozy marketplace:

 You can find real masterpieces of architecture here, but Riga doesn't advertise it. Mostly these beautiful buildings here are not renovated. 

This street takes you to former workers district where you find wooden houses – some of these houses standing here the same as they were 100 years ago, between them as real flowers grows several masonry buildings.  We call this district Grīziņkalns and it has been immortalized in several Latvian fiction books and poems.