Moscow Suburb: don't go there in Riga. Or better - do it!

If there is a district in Riga locals are telling tourists to stay away - it's Moscow Suburb - that shady place with old wooden buildings, black market and every second house selling illegal drugs. And now it's time to be honest - I live there. I've been walking around there at daylight hours and totally alone at nights as well. Nothing ever happened to me. Nobody even tried to harm me or my street-walking peace there. I'm sharing apartment with two other people and nothing bad ever happened to them as well. My intuition is whispering that this district is not that bad. 

 

Ok, here is something not so nice - you will see old haunted wooden houses, drunk people on streets, some stray dogs, you will probably witness drug dealing, someone might ask you a cigarette and the main language spoken there is not Latvian, you will hear Russian. If it sounds scary to you - don't go there. 

So called Moscow Suburb is the oldest district in Riga (right after the medieval Old Town) and its history starts dated back to 14th century. So, Russian district, then Jewish district, the poorest district in Riga... If you are interested in history of this part of Riga (and some more pictures), check here: Russians of Latvia

Talking about nowadays: as I mentioned before - I can perfectly deal with this district where haunted houses are displayed to view but private palaces are hiding behind high fences. I even find it somehow romantic place... Start your tour with Riga Central Market, then head to the Soviet skyscraper The Academy of Sciences and "dive" into Moscow Suburb with   Jewish memorial places, Grebenshchikov Church - one of the largest congregations of Old Believers in the world, independent theater, small shops and other things to wonder about.

Oh, you can find there the most amazing flea market I've seen - Latgalīte - it's just awful at a first glimpse, but definitely a place where you could find even Devil if you were looking for it - you can find there everything. As we joke - if you have lost something in Riga, you can buy your things at this flea market.  (Note: it won't hurt to watch your pockets and bags if you go there).

Posh and shine is staying away from Moscow Suburb- it still is the poorest district in Riga. Well, probably this district looks also a bit sad and depressive in rainy days, but it has it's own atmosphere and historical breath. And shiny, colorful autumn seems the most suitable season for this district. That's something you don't get to see at the city center.

P.s. You can click on pictures to enlarge them.

Bohemian Street - Away From Touristic Riga

 The Street of Peace (Miera iela) is like a little Riga's secret out of the touristic centre, - new born  bohemian paradise, but still in the centre of the city 20 - 30 min walk away from The Old Town. No drunk crowds, no screaming party-people, but special places to celebrate the life everyday. My heart belongs there and it's not because I was born there.  It's also not because already more than one year I see how the sun goes down and how it's rising on mornings over the roofs of this street through my window.  

 The street long time ago was made as the road to cemeteries out of the city. Close to the main street in Riga - Freedom street, close to the one of the biggest theatres in Riga "Dailes Teātris". On this street you will find the factory of the best Latvian chocolate "Laima". (Yes, sometimes the smell of chocolate is really impossible to avaoid, because it comes in over the opened windows and takes over the street). You will find here houses where 200 years ago lived aristocrats and you will see beautiful wooden architecture. 

One of the reasons to come here is it's bohemian atmosphere. DAD cafe - on Miera iela 17 - piano, jazz, vintage furniture, poetry, photograpy... TAKA on Miera iela 10 - colorfull  place with origami birds in windows & comfortable sofas, home-made wine from Latvia, sometimes tasty smell of soup makes you to stop passing by this place... Tea-room "ILLUSEUM" on Miera iela 19 - to collect your thoughts over the cup of tea: exceptional collection of teas from all over the world... Vintage shops and high quality handicrafts. People with bicycles, the tram nr. 11, cobbled streets... It's like peacefull Sunday mood or evening talks over the cup of tea are living right on this street.

If you keep walking this street 5 more minutes the direction away from the Freedom Street (Brīvības iela) you will see in front park - cemetery called The Great Graveyard: one of the most interesting cemeteries I have seen. See some pictures here: The Lost World Cemetery With The Soul

Preili Town - Find Your Own Little Wonderland!

Preili is a small town (south-eastern part of Latvia) within 200 km from Riga which slowly becomes more and more popular place for tourists to visit. One of the main reasons to visit this town is miniature castles. There is also neo-gothic manor house that once belonged to the count Borch family of German descent and used to be a wonderful dwelling-place surrounded by a romantic ancient park. 
 

And of course - it's located 25 km from the most famous church in Latvia - Aglona Basilica. 

This town is peacefull, artsy, romantic and small... Sculptures in honor of the cheese, miniature realm, the smallest church in Latvia...

Look at these pictures! Looks cute, no?

Riga Which You don't Find in Tourist Guides

You definitely have to see the Old Town of Riga, you have to see our beautifull and renovated Art Noveau on Alberta street. But if you are in Riga for longer time or it’s not the first time when you are here – take a walk and be one of these rare birds discovering other Riga.

If you start your way from the Freedom Monument (The Old Town stay behind you) – look up! You will discover very interesting architecture. Go till you reach the  Daile Theatre and tramways. You are on Matīsa street. You can turn right and continue your walk on Matīsa street or turn left and countinue on Miera street (street of peace).

Turn to the right side: Matīsa iela. You are still in the centre of Riga. Behind these walls you’ll find small, cozy marketplace:

 You can find real masterpieces of architecture here, but Riga doesn't advertise it. Mostly these beautiful buildings here are not renovated. 

This street takes you to former workers district where you find wooden houses – some of these houses standing here the same as they were 100 years ago, between them as real flowers grows several masonry buildings.  We call this district Grīziņkalns and it has been immortalized in several Latvian fiction books and poems.