Two great places off the beaten path: having a drink there can be cultural experience.

If it happens that you are craving for cultural experiences and would love to have a drink surrounded by those who eat and breathe culture, wear hats, beards and glasses, and read books there are some really great hipster-places in Riga. Yeah, I said hipster-places. I've also heard that Riga is hipster capital. At least this article tells it: Hipster Capital Riga

Well, whatever, I’m not here to find the definition of hipsterism. I’m here to share with you info about two pretty enjoyable places that are well known here as typical hipster-places. It means, you will have to get out of the Old Town. No worries, both of them are at the city center and really just some 10-15 min walk away from the Old Town.

Old furniture, heat from fireplaces, friendly locals, concerts, out-of-the-box performances and booze, oh, and usually no snobs there as well!!!  

KKC – Kaņepes Kultūras Centrs

This self-proclaimed culture center in old mansion has real charm. It’s just a 10 min walk away from the Old Town. No chic. And that’s the best thing about this place – the content and charm comes from people, performances and attitude. They have even movie evenings and the territory outside in front of the building is absolutely welcoming in summers, gathering people like a magnet.

Not just the bar and stage, but the building itself has stories around, in and out. It stands there from the beginning of XX century, it has hosted aristocracy and lived through bohemian times when students lived there and it has been school of music for children as well.

Address:  Skolas iela 15. It’s right on the corner between Skolas and  Lāčplēša streets. Look for a giant sculpture of a black lion outside on the wall, and fence that draws a boundary between the street and another world.

Who goes there? Well, definitely not bling-bling people looking for posh and luxury or willing to get something from you. You will meet there artists, students, writers, photographers, hipsters, philosophers and lovers of cultural values – those who are looking for something different and able to find more into less.

Check out their Facebook fan page to dig into pictures: KKC (Kaņepes Kultūras Centrs) Facebook Page

CHOMSKY

As you might have guessed – this place has been named after American philosopher Noam Chomsky. They are kind of rebels that dare to say out loud – we are not here to comply with authorities and political correctness.  This place is pretty small and you probably won’t even notice it if you were just walking by not looking for it. It’s in that part of city center where tourists don’t get so often. When nobody is looking for ordering drinks, a guy behind the bar pretty often is reading books. That’s already something that tells about this place. It is a really simple shed-like place - one more little piece of heaven that proves that simplicity has a lot in it. Old furniture that seems to have lived its life already, perfectly fits into this place where being who you are is valued a lot higher than pretending.  Oh, and this small place from times to times have concerts as well that might surprise you with really undomesticated music.

Address: Lāčplēša iela 68. Look for a portrait of Noam Chomsky next to the entrance.

Who goes there? Friends and lone wolves who want to have a beer in a shed-like place, those who want to spend time talking to people, those who can go out without make-up or their best clothes on, and that-kind of people who go to KKC as well.

I haven’t lied a word, that’s how it looks and feels there: Chomsky Facebook Page 

These both places are truly welcoming, so if you have a feeling that’s something for you, I’m sure you won’t regret going there! If these places seem for you suspicious and too strange, you probably don't have to waste your time going there. If fact, these are not just "some kind of places" to have a drink - these are experiences in space-time.

Warm Relationship with Riga Black Balsam on Cold Season

I usually don't get that excited to write 4 tweets about the same thing in 15 minutes. But it happened to me today and I guess that's a sign I should write a blog about it... In fact, I already did it... a year ago... Here: Where to Get The Best Medicine Ever - Honey, Herbs and Riga Black Balsam? 

The thing is that this story will be about that one magical ingredient  - Riga Black Balsam. 

I know I've been lazy (again) and I actually should write a blog about my Poland - Italy trip, but there are some obvious reasons I feel I should write about Riga Black Balsam today.

1) My Riga Black Balsam season has started exactly today

2) Riga Black Balsam is one of the best things in Riga

3) 2 days ago I tried (yes, the first time in my life) Riga Coffee (with the same magical ingredient) - although home-made coffee with balsam has been my love for several years

4) With my flatmates today we discovered a new recipe to fight cold (with the same magical ingredient)

5)  I discovered @RigaBlackBalsam on Twitter

And here come some explanations:

Riga Black Balsam season lasts from around October to March, so - cold season. No,that's not any kind of official season, that's my personal season. This beverage is good on summer with ice-cream too, but there is one big reason why cold months of the year is Black Balsam season. I've got out of all winter colds and sicknesses without any strong medicine for 2 winters because I use this magical ingredient. No, it doesn't mean I've been walking around drunk. It means that if I say that remedy for everything is Riga Black Balsam  - I really mean it.

My flatmate caught first awful autumn cold, and we are not people who have medicine at home. I'm usually the one people ask how to get out of cold (probably my old traditional recipes that do not include medicine you get at your doctor or pharmacy work well and do not hurt wallets). You already know my answer for cold season, so we were running to shop to get it. Well, since today at least all cold season we will keep it at home as I've done it for previous winters. 

And here comes our new recipe to fight cold:

Mix together hot water, honey, Riga Black Balsam, some pieces of lemon, a bit of cinnamon and black pepper. Ehm... That all to taste... We find it not only delicious, but also extremely helpful hot drink. (We invented it today, just in case if someone else hasn't discovered it before us although I'm not so sure about it).

My German friends totally love Riga Black Balsam, but two days ago I met a guy from Brazil who told me - "Oh, you mean that strong dark brown drink! Well... Some shots with it was my mistake last night, so I was totally wasted..." I didn't ask how many shots he drunk, but talking about me - I definitely feel much better having coffee with Riga Black Balsam especially when the central heating in Riga is not on yet and cold is knocking on windows.

So, if you are coming to Riga - at least try it! You can get it in almost every shop, cafe and bar. I don't ask you to drink it plain, try it in cocktails or coffee - it is delicious!

Where Locals Have Fun III

Time to get to know other places where locals are having fun, in other words - places for your evenings and nights in Riga. Previously I took you to "Pulkvedis", "Greenwood", "Nabaklab", "Leningrad" and "Shot Cafe".

If "Pulkvedis" is a place with 16 years experience in making people to dance, then here is one other place with huge experience  - "Cuba Cafe" - coctail bar in the heart of the Old Town, on the same street with other bars like Spot Cafe and Greenwood next to the Dome Square. "Cuba" cafe doesn't give you a huge dancing place, but still - their DJs will make you to move. Quite romantic place, often filled (or really crowded) with tourists and locals. Kind of a place for tequila and heating the dance floor. 

One of newest most interesting places in Riga Old Town is folk club "Ala" on Smilšu street, close to the Powder Tower (War Museum). This place takes people in the journey around the world: folk bands from around the world are performing here, and when there is no foreign artists, you will be invited to join joyfull Latvian folk dances. This place in the basement is really charming - the first and only traditional music bar in Latvia. Dancing evenings are great here: you can watch traditional Latvian dances and get into the dancing like Latvian. If you are in Riga, I hope you will get there in one of these dancing evenings. 

Where Locals Have Fun I
Where Locals Have Fun II

Bohemian Street - Away From Touristic Riga

 The Street of Peace (Miera iela) is like a little Riga's secret out of the touristic centre, - new born  bohemian paradise, but still in the centre of the city 20 - 30 min walk away from The Old Town. No drunk crowds, no screaming party-people, but special places to celebrate the life everyday. My heart belongs there and it's not because I was born there.  It's also not because already more than one year I see how the sun goes down and how it's rising on mornings over the roofs of this street through my window.  

 The street long time ago was made as the road to cemeteries out of the city. Close to the main street in Riga - Freedom street, close to the one of the biggest theatres in Riga "Dailes Teātris". On this street you will find the factory of the best Latvian chocolate "Laima". (Yes, sometimes the smell of chocolate is really impossible to avaoid, because it comes in over the opened windows and takes over the street). You will find here houses where 200 years ago lived aristocrats and you will see beautiful wooden architecture. 

One of the reasons to come here is it's bohemian atmosphere. DAD cafe - on Miera iela 17 - piano, jazz, vintage furniture, poetry, photograpy... TAKA on Miera iela 10 - colorfull  place with origami birds in windows & comfortable sofas, home-made wine from Latvia, sometimes tasty smell of soup makes you to stop passing by this place... Tea-room "ILLUSEUM" on Miera iela 19 - to collect your thoughts over the cup of tea: exceptional collection of teas from all over the world... Vintage shops and high quality handicrafts. People with bicycles, the tram nr. 11, cobbled streets... It's like peacefull Sunday mood or evening talks over the cup of tea are living right on this street.

If you keep walking this street 5 more minutes the direction away from the Freedom Street (Brīvības iela) you will see in front park - cemetery called The Great Graveyard: one of the most interesting cemeteries I have seen. See some pictures here: The Lost World Cemetery With The Soul

Free Live Music Open-Air concerts Every Evening – hot spots in Riga this summer!

There are 3 hot spots for live music every evening in The Old Town – 3 open-air cafes, beer gardens which offers enjoy not only different tastes of foods and drinks, but also good music.

Livu Square (Līvu laukums) close to the Freedom monument (on Kaļķu street) is full

with summer cafes. Near the terraces like „Kaļķu vārti”, „Mad House”, „Blue Cow” and others you will find a place called „Zelta Fīlings” (Golden Feeling)! Taste one of 36 sorts of local and world famous beers they offer and enjoy latino & jazz!

If you keep walking the same (Kaļķu) street you can turn right on Sķūņu street. You will reach another square - Dome Sqare – with the Dome cathedral and some other summer terraces: „Planeta Sushi”, „Double Cafe”, Summer cafe of „13 Krēsli” (13 Chairs) with Mitrokhin’s Master band performing live regularry and my favorite place – „No Problem”. „No Problem” has nice atmosphere and good live music – rock, jazz, sometimes country. And this is the place which with it’s music quite often make people to move from their chairs and dance. Also the prices here are really reasonable.Just sometimes it’s too crowded to find a place to enjoy the music there.

The 3rd place which sometimes makes me to stop to enjoy the music is cafe „Egle” near the Town Hall square – Rātslaukums – with famous Backheads houses you see on almostly every postcard from Riga. You can get back to Kaļķu street and you will find it soon. There is a Christmas tree made from peaces of mirror, Souvenier shop with a big black cat next to it called „Riga Cat” and there is this cafe „Egle” – open air leisure venue with live music every evening from 8PM. Traditional music, classical rock songs, jazz, popular latvian rock & pop bands – all kinds of music.

Free entrance & nice concerts in all 3 cafes. And all summer long there is Summer Stage at the sqaure near the central station with different concerts, mostly on weekends. Enjoy!

Where locals have fun II (Shot Cafe & Leningrad)

Travelling around is a great thing to do, but when I came back home, Riga doesn’t allow me to get rested. If you came to Riga it’s sparkling life from morning to morning will take you in. My favorite question for toursits I meet here is, of course,  - why Riga? The nightlife is one of these reasons.Yes, also bars and clubs you can find here opened till 6 – 7 am. Check my previous post: Where locals have fun 

Two more places with great atmosphere I would like to add the the list of places to enjoy & have fun:

„Shot cafe” in the Old Town of Riga right next to the War Museum (Torņa street 4) – small, cosy bar with around 100 different shots and other drinks with reasonable prices. The place where during the day time you can get your lunch and during the night you can enjoy parties till morning, and if you get there at the happy hour you get 3 shots paying just for 2. That’s the place which has became the favorite place for a lot of Rigans and guests of Riga.

„Leningrad” – also in The Old Town (Kalēju street 54) – artsy place to meet with friends or young Latvian artists. DJ events, literary meetings and art events provide the necessary spice to keep you coming back time and again. You can come in and feel like home there, take a book from the book shelf, play some games or even piano. 

Where Locals Have Fun

Just red an article on RigaNOW November issue - some words about places where to have fun and where locals go in Riga. I’ll name for you places mentioned there as a good choice for you and give more information about the places I love to go. Aslo some places better to stay away from.

„RigaNOW” gives you these places which are safe for you and where locals have fun: Push (Terbatas street 2), Mad House (Kalku 11), Coyote Fly (Palasta 3), Nobody Writes to the Colonel – Pulkvedim Neviens Neraksta (Peldu 26) and Greenwood (Krāmu 3).

From the places mentioned here I advice you „Nobody Writes to the Colonel” („Pulkvedim Neviens Neraksta” or just „Pulkvedis”). I go there to dance. Dance, dance and dance again. Usually it’s crowded. RigaNOW says: „a longstanding favorite for locals who just want a no-frills good time dancing and enjoying the varied and generally non-techno music.” Usually there is no entrance fee, nice people – locals and foreigners, quite cheap drinks and real party atmosphere.

To be honest, I’m quite surprised that Greenwood is in this list, but I also sometimes go there. It’s a nice place, usually not so crowded. RigaNOW says: „Laidback, safe and little artsy. It attracts non-attitude crowds for freestyle devil-may-care dancing and cheap drinks.” I don’t know about crowds, but people go there. Sometimes there are concerts, usually no entrance fee. Nice place.

Other places mentioned before you will have to check out without me, but I would like to add one more place: „Nabaklab” (which could be translated as belly-botton club). Nabaklab is quite new place with concerts and exhibitions, with vintage shop inside, interesting people and interesting parties there, different kinds of music and a lot more. It’s not only bar/club – this place is something more. Made by the Radio „Naba”: non-commercial radio of the University of Latvia. Usually there is entrance fee (around 2-4Ls), but drinks there are quite cheap and locals really go there to have fun.

One more safe and a lot of fun having bar in Riga Old Town is Cuba, right next to Greenwood. Usually totally crowded, but anyway people dance there, drink and have fun. But in summer the best place to enjoy your nights is beer garden in the centre of the Old Town called „No problem”. This place has really no problems: nice choice of beers, good prices and great atmosphere! There are really great concerts so it might be full and if you think that people will go away if it starts raining – you are wrong, they all will stay there and enjoy the music. In summer go there!

Bars and clubs named and shamed by Latvia’s tourist board in 2009 and you should better stay away from: Babylon (at Kalku 24), Bar Fly (Vāgnera 8), Mary (Audēju 13), Nobu Sushi (Grēcinieku 28), Doll House (Mārstaļu12) Mademoiselle Cigar Club (on Vaļņu Street).

Pictures:1) Nobody Writes to the Colonel, 2) Greenwood, 3) Nabaklab